Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Walking

Walking is something most people take for granted. In Camden County, NJ (suburbanized in the early 1900’s), there is pavement for pedestrians down almost every street. I used to run from borough to borough in all directions on them. In bordering Gloucester County (suburbanized in the late 1900’s), sidewalks exist only occasionally, to walk within certain neighborhoods. But there are large parks with internal walking trails.

Walking is the first casualty in Kabul when security emergencies arise. “Lockdowns” occur and the streets are cleared, especially of foreigners. The fact that suicide bombers do not generally target pedestrians does not embolden most to ambulate freely around the city. Add to that the threat of kidnapping, and there are many compelling reasons to feel uncomfortable taking constitutionals in Kabul.

Women, in particular, have a hard time getting out and about here. First of all, they need to keep their heads covered at all times when outdoors. That is not comfortable in the summer. Then, staring at women is socially acceptable. Touching and poking at women is not always acceptable; but you have to be (or be with) a stout hearted person to take on the crowd and establish the right to walk without being molested.

Afghans consider it a sin punishable by death that an Afghan woman, who must all by law be Muslim, would marry a non-Muslim (foreigner). Since my wife looks like an Afghan, though she is not, there are those who get more than indignant when they see us together on the street. Going with her to protect her can cause more problems than it solves.

So during Fall Break when, after a personal tragedy (that is another story), my wife was invited back to Dushanbe for a week (trip to be detailed slightly in my snail mail Christmas letter) we accepted the “excuse”. The most powerful immediate blessing of the journey was the freedom to be ordinary pedestrians, walking together, strolling around town, wandering among the restaurants and shops, hiking through what remains of a botanical park the Soviets once planted, hoofing over to friends’ houses. No one was staring at us. No one was looking even remotely interested in inflicting the death penalty on us.

Our love was designed to prevail over whatever. However, short breaks from whatever can be a godsend.

Psalm 119:45 And I will walk at liberty, For I seek your precepts NASV

Psalm 138:7 Though I walk in the midst of trouble, You will revive me; You will stretch forth Your hand against the wrath of my enemies, And Your right hand will save me. NASV

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

The right to walk on the street. The desire to feel safe when walking on the street. The desire to walk alone. Those are all things that I fought for my first year. After one particularly scary sequence of events I did battle with my own mind and won and I walked on the streets again. The second year the battle was against newcomers who wanted to impose rules. The third year walking was less of a battle. Now thinking about returning, this is again something that occupies my mind: what is current convention and what are the current rules, and can I do it again? H.